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The panade recipe in The Zuni Cafe Cookbook got here to my consideration when a buddy baked a fantastic double-version of it in an over-sized AGA dutch oven and served it at a cocktail party years in the past. It was the show-stopping centerpiece of a meal flanked by a fantastic winter inexperienced + chicory salad and gem-shaded glasses of wine. The mixture of effervescent cubes of brothy bread and caramelized onions silkily merging with molten threads of cheese is knee-buckling. It’s the right instance of a brief checklist of the only elements coming collectively into one thing rather more than then sum of their elements.
I’ve baked variations of this panade within the years since, and it by no means disappoints. It’s endlessly adaptable, which means you can add seasonal elements to fit your fancy. For instance, in my case, I do a vegetarian model by switching up the broth, and I like my onions on the caramelized aspect of the spectrum. I’ll add no matter sautéed greens or roasted greens I’ve round. Judy additionally listed a variety of concepts and variations within the cookbook, so when you have it (and it’s best to!) be sure you have a look at these for year-round inspiration. Her authentic had chard. I exploit a number of scallions in mine. Briefly, it’s a type of IYKYK recipes. Molly Wizenberg knew what was up manner again in 2005 when she wrote concerning the Judy panade recipe right here.
I’m going to dive in and reply a lot of questions right here which may pop up. The ingredient checklist for this panade couldn’t be less complicated, however the satan is within the particulars and navigating private preferences.
What Sort of Bread for this Panade?
The quick reply is an efficient, chewy artisan sourdough loaf. That stated, I may also argue that loads of that is private desire. If you happen to bake sourdough at dwelling, by all means, use that. Both of these selection will seemingly end in a properly structured panade with good distinction between among the parts. The bread selection is such a giant deal on this recipe, every one will impression your finish outcome immensely. I realized the arduous manner after I used a extra industrial sourdough loaf to make the panade one night time – a lot finer crumb, much less/no chewiness, and I’m guessing it was 100% all-purpose flour. The ensuing panade broke down too far, into an unstructured stoop. You need the bread to place up a combat and maintain a little bit of pressure. Not go to mush altogether.
Crust or no Crust?
There are arguments for each. The panade right here retained the crust on the bread cubes. However I’ve executed crustless variations earlier than. If you happen to resolve you like an excellent oozy, silky panade, go crustless. If you happen to like your panade to have extra construction, maintain your crust. Or go 50/50!
What’s the Finest Broth for Panade?
We have a tendency to make use of no matter good-tasting broth now we have round or within the freezer (defrost). I like an herby broth for this scallion and chive model, however for those who’re in a pinch seize a bouillon dice or two and go from there. Judy makes use of a hen broth in her recipe (which doesn’t work for vegetarians), however I’ve had nice outcomes with mushroom broth, and corn broth together with roasted cherry tomatoes and goat cheese within the panade. I’ve even used spicy bean broth.
Can I exploit a Completely different Cheeses on this Panade?
You possibly can! I name for Gruyere, however point out within the headnote that one in all my favourite variations ended up being a mix of Gruyere, Parmesan, and Pecorino cheeses. I desire barely assertive cheeses for the panade, with no less than a portion being a cheese that oozes when melted. For instance, I wouldn’t attain for a mozzarella – too delicate.
Can I Make this Forward of Time?
I usually make the caramelized onions forward of time. After which another fillings that I would be capable to pre-roast.
Soupy versus Dry-ish Panades
Once more, that is private desire. After you bake panade a couple of times you’ll begin to get a way of what type you favor. You possibly can go the soup-is route by including extra broth. Or lean into extra of a stuffing vibe with much less broth. The recipe beneath goals to hit the mark the place the panade is transitioning from a stuffing-like texture, into silkier magic, not-yet-in-soup territory.
This recipe is a warming, hearty, winter hotter. It seems to be so rustic, however the silkiness down within the depths is what’s extremely stunning. It’s the final word consolation dish that I hope you get pleasure from as a lot as I’ve over time. Due to Jamie & Chanda & Bonni for our SF panade dinners, we miss them (and also you) a lot!
